







ELEMENTARY 
MANUAL 
TRAINING 




A Suggestive Outline for the First 

Eight Gr&dee in Public and 

Private Schools 




IDA HOOD CLARK 

Supervisor 9f MahuaI Training 

NllwaukM Publio Soho«l« 

MUwAukee. Wla. 





Elementary Manual Training 

A Suggestive Outline for the First Eight 

Grades in Public and Private 

Schools. 



IDA HOOD CLARK 

Supervisor of Manual Training, Milwaukee Public Schools 

Milwaukee, "Wisconsin 



LIBRARY af CONGRESS 
Two Copies Kecelved 

DEC 12 1904 

Copyrigni tntry 

cuss ^ XXC. Noi 

COPY B» 



■ ¥ 



k h I su 



Entered according- to Act of Congress 
in the year 1904 by 

IDA HOOD CLARK 

in the office of the Ivibrarian of Cong-ress at 
Washixgtox, D. C. 



PREFACE 



In response to a growing- demand for a course in Elementary Manual 
Training-, that is practical and educational, and also one that considers the 
conditions that exist in the average public school of to-da3', I have planned 
a course that is mereU^ suggestive, but one that ma)" prove an entering 
wedge to more complete work everj^ where. 

Since Ph3"siolog3" proves that handwork is the strongest force in the 
school room, and as the greatest number of our children are trained in the 
elementary schools, it is positivel)" necessary" that these 3"oung children 
shall receive the benefit of this valuable training. 

Up to a few years past the Kindergarten has been the only natural 
school. Now we are endeavoring to cover the gap that has existed between 
the kindergarten and the first grade children by continuing the activities 
of the kindergarten. Hampered as we are by too man)" pupils for one 
teacher, an over-crowded course of stud)-, and being obliged to practice the 
strictest econom3" in order that this work shall appeal to patrons, Boards of 
Education, and all the "powers that be", our course in Manual Training 
in Public Schools must necessarily be planned to meet all these conditions; 
trusting that b3^ demonstrating to the public generally that Manual Train- 
ing is practical as well as educational, we shall be able to secure appropria- 
tions that will enable us to show its highest possibilities as a factor in 
education, as it is only when Manual Training fits into a general scheme 
that it is valuable. Considering them all, the above conditions, it seems 
advisable at present to arrange the method of teaching Manual Training 
in the grades as follows : 

The bo3"s and girls in the first four grades work together with their 
own teacher. The girls of two rooms in the fifth and sixth grades sew 
together, and the bo3"s of the corresponding grades, whittle. One teacher 
taking the sewing class and the other the whittling class. In the seventh 
and eighth grades, where it is possible to have Domestic Science, the girls 
cook while the bo3"s take bench work. The work in these classes is taught 
b3^ special teachers. Where the shops and laboratories are not possible be- 
cause of the cost of equipment, the girls may take the sewing, needle work 
and basketr3", while the bo3"s take basketr3^, mechanical drawing, Venetian 
ironwork, etc. This work ma3^ also be taught b3^ the regular teacher. 

All work taught under direction of the Supervisor of Manual Train- 
ing. Where it is impossible for a city to afford a supervisor, excellent 
results may be secured by having the regular teacher follow the instruc- 
tions given in this outline. In this wa3' a beginning nia3" be made which 
is sure to lead to something better. 

The work in the first six grades should be taught b3" the regular class 
room teacher, under competent direction as if it were economicalh' possible 
to consider an3" other arrangement, it would be pedagogicall3^ wrong, as 
on 13^ the regular teacher can come closely in touch with the children under 
her care. I believe hand work in the elementar3' school should be used as 



a means through which all the other subjects in the curriculum should 
be taught, and it will reach its highest possibilities when the regular teacher 
uses it as she now uses reading and writing as a means of expression. 

Fine opportunities are also given for the currelation of Manual Train- 
ing and the other school subjects. Talks on occupations, industries of all 
nations, materials and processes, furnish valuable topics for language les- 
sons, geography, history, arithmetic and nature study. In fact, Manual 
Training in the hands of a live teacher may be made to personate the whole 
course of study in such a way that it becomes the most vital force in the 
most ordinary school room. So connect Manual Training and all that it 
means, with a reasonable bodily training or physical culture, and we shall 
transform the children into taller, larger, stronger men and women to 
whom useful toil will be a joy. 



MANUAL TRAINING FOR FIRST EIGHT GRADES 
FOR PUBLIC SCHOOLS 



OUTLINE FOR MANUAL TRAINING 

GRADE I-B Class 

MODKIy I— Needle Case. 

MATERIALS— Manila paper, rug- needle No. 18, 4-ply Germantown 
yarn or colored raffia. 

Paper is furnished to each school by Board of Education cut in 4 in. 
squares. Each pupil to have two pieces. Teacher or older pupils of any 
higher g-rade may prepare the materials before the Manual Training 
period. These 4 in. squares may be cut into circles or any shape desired. 
Make the needle case about three inches across. Punch the holes % in. 
from the edg-es of the paper, and about % in. apart. Thread 'the rug- 
needle with colored yarn or colored raffia, and using the blanket stitch, 
finish the edg-es of two pieces of paper. Place one or two leaves of woolen 
or cotton cloth between the two pieces of paper, and tie these pieces 
tog-ether with a piece of ribbon, yarn, or raffia. The edg-es of the cloth 
may be snipped with the scissors, or finished with any fancy stitch. In 
every case let the children do all the work. No matter how long it takes 
to make these needle cases, have the work done by the children, the 
teacher directing the work. In connection with this lesson tell the children 
how paper is made, material of which needles are made, where the wool 
comes from of which the yarn they are using is made. - Tell the children 
we must have some place to keep our needles, so we shall use this needle 
case for that purpose. When the needle cases are finished have each child 
put his needle in his case, and keep in his box. 

MODEL II— Holder— Plain Weaving. 

MATERIALS— Tag board or stiff card board, 8-ply Germantown Wool, 
rug needle No. 18. 

Teacher or older pupils of any grade prepare the card board by cutting 
it into pieces 6x5 in. and punching holes X in- apart at the top and bottom of 
the piece, beginning about Vz in. from each edge, having these holes exact- 
ly opposite. Thread the rug needle with as long a strand of the yarn as the 
children can conveniently handle and make a large knot at the end. Begin 
the weaving by placing the knot on the under side at the upper left hand 
corner of the card board and bring the needle through to the right side, 
thus bringing the long thread of the yarn on the right side, now go 
through to the wrong side, this will bring all the short stitches on the 
wrong side. Continue putting in all the warp threads, being careful not 
to pull the yarn too tight. Fasten by sewing over the last short stitch on 

5 



the wrong side. Now the children are ready to put in the woof thread — or 
the cross thread. This may be the same color as the warp thread or it 
may be a different color. Beg-in weaving the cross thread by first tying 
the end of the thread to the first warp thread at the right and weave over 
one thread and under one thread, being careful not to pull tiie woof thread 
too tight, but keep the threads straight so the edges of the holder will be 
even. Fasten by sewing over the last thread two or three times. Before 
taking the holder from the card board, the children must fasten each woof 
thread at the edges of the holder to each warp thread, to that the threads 
will not pull out. The children may keep these holders in their boxes, 
until the close of the term for exhibition purposes, then they may be 
taken home. In connection with this lesson talks on wool, sheep and card 
board may be given. This is their first lesson in weaving, and, whenever 
possible, show children pictures of people weaving and tell them that all 
our clothing is made in this way, etc. 

Paper cutting for expression, in story telling. 

Clay modeling for expression. 

GRADE I— A Class 

MODElv I-*-Fancy weaving on nail looms. 

MATI^RIAIvS — Loom 12x6 in., Germantown yarn, weaving needles. 

The children in the third and fourth grades may make these looms 
for first grade. On a 12x6 in. board place small nails % in. apart all 
around the loom % in. from edges. The children having had the 
plaitl weaving in the B class, may now take up the weaving in 
designs by making a holder on these looms. The teacher may ex- 
plain the meaning of the word loom, telling them that large hand 
looms are made on the same plan — also the machine looms. De- 
scribe these. Pictures may be collected by the children and passed to 
the class, and the use and purpose of weaving explained and reviewed. 
Then have the children thread the weaving needles with as long a strand 
of wool as they can conveniently handle, and tie the end on the nail at the 
upper left hand corner, of the loom. Then pass the wool around two nails, 
then around the two opposite nails and continue, thus putting in the warp 
threads.- To put in the woof threads tie the yarn on the first warp thread 
at the right, passing under one thread and over four threads, making a 
diagonal weave. Weave one half of the holder in this way and the other 
half either in the plain weaving or in some other design. Before taking 
the holder from the loom, fasten the first woof thread to the warp threads, 
by threading a large darning or rug needle with the yarn and then sewing 
each thread. Now lift the holder from the loom and fold it in half, so 
that the fancy weaving will be on one side and the plain weaving on the 
other side. Sew the edges together, with the yarn, with the over and over 
stitch. 

MODEL II — Book covers or booklets. 

MATERIALS -Manila paper or Bristol board, scissors, paste. 

Have children fold and cut a cover of this paper to fit the book they 
are using. Teachers may plan a simple cover, and have children fold and 
paste, or they may make a plain cover of Bristol board for putting their 
drawing papers in. The edges of the booklet may be finished by using 
the blanket stitch with colored yarns or raffia. Scrap books are very 
pretty made with simple covers, of lines with a design worked in. 

6 



MODEL III — Clay modeling- for expression work. See special direc- 
tions. 

MATERIAIyS— Clay, a board about 9x12 in. or a piece of oil cloth. 

Teachers prepare clay and give each pupil a small piece of the clay. 
Paper cutting- for expression. See special directions. 



GRADE II-B Class 

MODELr I— Carpet yarn rug. 

MATERIAIyS — Wooden loom 9x12 in., carpet warp or plain string, rug 
yarn, weaving needle. 

The children having had weaving of holders may now make a rug 
with a border. The teacher may show the children her rug and show the 
class by a blackboard sketch how the borders are woven. Then have the 
children take a piece of paper the size of the loom and make a drawing of 
the rug they wish to make. Take one period if necessary for this drawing 
and if any time is left explain the construction of this loom, the use of the 
wires on the side, etc. The children in weaving may make the borders 
first and then put in the centers or they may put in one border and then 
the center and other border. The threads must be put very closely to- 
gether and be perfectly straight across the warp threads. Before taking 
the rug from the loom have the children thread a rug needle with some 
of the rug yarn and pass the needle through the loop containing the warp 
threads, then take the warp threads at each end of the rug and tie two of 
them together. 

MODEIv II— Foot rule. 

MATERIAL'S — Card board, scissors, lead pencil, ruler. 

Teach the children one inch and one-half inch on the ruler. Have 
them draw these measurements on their tablet paper and then have them 
make a drawing of a foot ruler on their tablet paper. Use a whole period 
or more if necessary to develop this drawing. Then they make the ruler 
on the card board, measuring only inches and half inches. In connection 
with this lesson teach the use of the ruler. Make ruler 1^^ in. wide. 

GRADE II-A Class 

MODEL I— Doll's bed blanket. 

MATERIALS — Germantown yarns, 8-ply, two colors, card board 9x12 
in., rug needle. 

Weave the same as in the rug weaving. But the children prepare 
the card board for the blanket. Have them draw a line yi inch from the 
edges of the card board and Yz inch from each side and draw a line with 
the rulers they have made, and then measure the holes ]i inch apart. Use 
the yarn for the warp threads as well as for the woof threads and finish 
the same as in the rug, by fastening the warp and woof threads at each 
end before taking from the loom. Have the children make simple borders 
after noticing borders of blankets at home. In the lesson the teacher may 
tell the pupils how the yarns are woven, why called Germantown, etc. 



MODEIy II— Birthday booklets. 

MATERIAL'S — Plain white paper, colored bristol board, rug- or darn- 
ing- needle. 

Have children use leaves 12 inches long and 9 inches wide. These ~ 
leaves are furnished in these sizes. Give each child twelve sheets, one for 
each month in the year. Divide each page into the number of days in 
each month by drawing lines -with the rules across the page. This to be 
used for the children's friends to write their names and year they were 
born. The pages may be decorated bj- some little appropriate design. 
Have the children punch holes on the left side and tie with cord, raffia or 
narrow ribbon. 

Paper cutting for expression, in story telling. 

Clay modeling for expression. ^ 

GRADE III-B Class 

MODEL I — Envelope for hammock. 

MATERIALS — Manila paper, paste, scissors or knife. 

Size of envelope finished 11x14 inches. Fold one inch across short 
side of the paper, then fold through the center and open this and fold 
again, so the one inch fold is on the outside, this is for the lap. Fold one 
inch across each edge of the paper. Cut out the under fold of each edge, 
paste one of the edges down and leave the other for the lap at the top. 
The edges may be cut round or diagonally as the children desire. This 
envelope is to be used to place the hammock in which we are to make 
next. This lesson will call the pupils attention to the use of envelopes of 
all kinds. How thej^ are made, etc. 

MODEE II— Doll's hammock. 

MATERIALS — Seine twine, hammock board 8x10 in., two brass 
rings, rug needle No. 18. Prepare hammock board the same as loom used 
in Grade II, A class. 

Make two holes in the center of the hammock board and sew the brass 
rings firmly to the board. Sew with sorne of the twine. Tie one end of 
a long piece of the cord to the brass ring and then pass the twine or cord 
through the first hole at the left of one end of the hammock board, this 
will bring the long threads of the cord on one side of the board, now pass 
the cord through the hole at the other end of the board, and. then through 
the other ring and back through the next hole at the same end. Continue 
until all the warp threads are put in. In putting in the woof threads, 
leave about two inches for fringe at the end of each woof thread. It will 
be necessary to have the first woof threads put very close up to the edges 
of the first warp thread, and very straight across the warp threads. The 
coarse part of a comb is very convenient to push these threads together. 
The woof threads may be cut off each time or left in loops and cut when 
the hammock is finished. Two colors may be used and borders made. Tie 
the fringe on each side, either in a single or double knot. Fasten the first 
woof thread to the warp thread, at each end just before taking the hammock 
from the board. To take the hammock from the board, cut the cord that 
holds the rings to the board. 

Paper cutting- for expression, in story telling. 

Clay modeling. 

8 



GRADE III— A Class 

MODEL I— Splint baskets. 

MATERIALS— Ash splints, yi in. or 1 in. wide. 

If 1 in. splints are furnished, cut the splints in half, leng-thwise. Cut 
the white ones in 9>^ in. leng-ths. Give each child ten white splints, 9>^x 
Yz in. Cut the colored splints 14 in. long-. Give each pupil six of these 
colored splints. Make the bottom of the basket by weaving- the white 
splints. Place five splints on the desk and weave with the other five over 
and under. This will make a square about 4 in. square, woven closely 
tog-ether, this makes a firm foundation. Now turn up the sides by creasing- 
each splint that is on the outside of the square. These splints after they 
are turned up fonn the ribs or sides of the basket. Begin at the center of the 
sides of the basket and weave with the colored splint right around the 
basket, and fastefl by passing- by the place where the weaving- beg-an. 
Now weave with another colored splint and so continue until the fifth 
colored splint is put in. Then finish the top by cutting- the white splints 
that formed the ribs, to a point, and turn them down on the under side, 
passing under the first colored splint. Now place a small )i in. splint on 
the inside and finish the top by sewing- over and over with a fine splint 
about 1-16 in. wide. If the children wish they may make handles for the 
sides of the basket by covering a small y% in. splint with sweet grass or 
any common grass and winding it with the fine splint. Fasten on the sides 
with a small loop of the white or colored splint. 

MODEL II— Knotted raffia bag. 

Take two strands of raffia and knot each near the end forming a large 
loop. Place one knot at the right and one at the left and then put one 
loop inside of the other. These strands form the draw strings used in all 
bags. The children may now take 24 strands and put twelve on each side 
of the draw strings. This knot is made by taking up two strands of the 
raffia and making a loop over your finger and then pulling the ends of 
the raffia through this loop. This knotting will form the first row. Make 
the second row by taking one strand of raffia from one knot and one from 
the second knot. Continue making each row in the same manner. The 
best method of teaching this knot and each row of knots, is first to draw 
the knot on the blackboard and then illustrate by taking two strands of 
the raffia and tying the knot before the class. "Let the children practice 
tying these knots for the first part of the lesson. Those who succeed first 
may assist the other children by showing them how the knots are tied. 
Drawing a part of the bag on the board will demonstrate the general plan, 
showing them that the knots then made form a diamond shape mesh. Call 
attention to the fact that in tying these knots they must be made very 
even in order to keep the shape of the bag and also that it will look the 
same on each side. To make the bag longer tie in new strands of raffia at 
the knots and cut the ends off neatly. To finish the bag take two strands 
from each side of the bag and tie in a double knot; this will form the 
bottom of the bag. The ends will form a fringe or these may be cut off 
and sewed in a seam with raffia, and sewing over the edges. These bags 
are very pretty and useful ; the children may use them for school books or 
for lunch bags, or they may be lined with silk and used for shopping bags. 
Very pretty bags may be made of seine twine, fish cord, macreme cord, 
either white or colored, made in the same way. 

Paper cutting for expression, in story telling. 

Clay modeling. 

9 



GRADE IV- B Class 

MODEIv I — Sewing- on buttons. 

MATERIALS — Have children bring- pieces of cloth, six inches long- 
and four inches wide and three buttons, one two holed, one four holed and 
one shank button. Use No. 8 needle and No. 60 thread, the color of the 
cloth used. Turn and crease )i inch all around the piece of cloth, fold so 
the edg-es are on the inside, baste around the edges with a stitch about 
X inch long-. Now divide the piece into three equal parts, crease, and on 
the first crease sew the two holed button. Thread the needle and make a 
firm round knot. Bring- the needle throug-h the crease on the right side, 
sew the button on over the knot bringing the needle through each time to 
the right side. Wind the thread around the button two or three times and 
then fasten by sewing through those threads twice, cut the thread off close 
to the button. Sew the four holed button on the second crease in the same 
manner. Place the knot on the right side of the third crease and sew over 
and over the shank, cutting the thread off close to the button when 
fastening. 

MODEL 11 — "Weaving silkalene or rag rug. 

MATERIALS — Loom 9x12 inches, silkalene or rags % ox ]/% inch wide, 
carpet warp or cord, weaving needle. 

Pupils can make these looms any size, or any old picture frame, or 
slate frame of any size may be used — the larger the better. If a frame is 
used place tacks or small nails about % inch apart at each end of the frame 
and put in the warp threads of the carpet warp, stretching the threads 
firmly across the frame. A wire may be fastened on each side to keep the 
rug from drawing in toward the center. Tie the material used for the 
woof thread, either silkalene or strips of common cloth, on the first warp 
thread at the right and weave over one thread and under one and so on, 
back and forth, alternating these threads over and under the wire each 
time, being careful that the woof threads are kept very closely together, so 
the warp threads do not show. These maybe woven in patterns or plain 
as the children like best. Before taking off the rug fasten each cross 
thread at each end to the warp threads, or the woof threads may be pushed 
back and the warp threads tied together in twos across the ends. Take 
the weaving needle and thread it with a strand of what is used for a woof 
thread and pass this through the part that goes over the wire and then tie 
this thread before taking the rug from the loom. These looms may be 
made any size. 

MODEL III — Braided raffia or paper book mark. 
MATERIALS— Raffia, natural or colored. 

In making this book-mark, the children are expected to braid fine 
strands of the raffia, in five, seven, nine or twelve strands, working this 
braiding out for themselves. Make the book-mark any length desired. 
Finish by bringing out the ends and sewing each end where the braiding 
ends with a fine strand of raffia. The natural and colored may be com- 
bined and woven in designs if desired. 

Colored paper may be used instead of raffia, and many pretty designs 
worked out by the children. 

10 



GRADE IV— A Class 

MODEL I— Kaffia basket. 

MATERIALS— Raffia, natural and colored, needle. 

Have the children make a free hand sketch of the basket, using- water- 
colors to put in the pattern anddesig-ns. Teachers may criticise, makesug- 
g-estions, etc. Pupils then take the raffia and make the basket they have 
drawn. For this basket use the lazy squaw stitch. Take about twenty- 
eight or thirty strands of natural raffia, place the ends evenly together. 
Then thread the needle with a smooth strand of the raffia and wind about 
1 inch of the coil made by the twent3^-eight or thirty strands smoothly, 
bend this in half and fasten with the needle, now wind about % inch and 
fasten b}^ passing the needle between the coil, draw this up very tight each 
time and fasten. For the bottom of the basket fasten each about % inch 
apart, make the bottom of the basket about 5 or 6 inches from side to side, 
then wind the coil as before and turn up the sides of the basket, making 
the basket any shape and from 7 to 8 inches high. Much of the beauty of 
this basket depends upon the evenness with which the coil is wound. The 
colored raffia is used for the design and patterns. 

MODEL II— Button bag. 

MATERIALS— Gingham, plain. 

Give each pupil two pieces 7x6 inches. Talk on cotton, how woven, 
arrangement of warp and woof threads on looms. Show picture of cotton 
mills, where located, prices of cotton, imports and exports, geographical dis- 
tribution, etc. Crease % inch on three sides of each piece, pin these to- 
gether with turned down parts on the inside, and baste with % inch 
stitches so the edges are exactly even. Overhand ly^ inches on each side, 
then leave % inch and overhand the rest on the right side with small over- 
handing stitches with thread the same color as the material, now turn the 
hem for the top of the bag so the edge of the hem will be at the lower edge 
of the % inch opening, baste and hem neatly. Turn bag inside out and 
overcast the edges of the parts turned in. Tell the pupils the % inch 
opening is for the casing. To form the top of the casino-, begin at the 
right at the top of the % inch opening and make a fine running stitch all 
round the bag. Now take 24 inches of No. 00 linen tape, cut this in two 
pieces, thread a tape needle with the one piece of the tape, insert the 
needle in one opening and go all around the bag and come out at the same 
opening. Join these ends in a fell seam, do the same at the other opening 
with the second piece of tape. 

MODEL III— Book bag. 

MATERIALS— Raffia, natural and colored. 

Take twenty-seven strands of natural or colored raffia and braid by 
separating into nine threes and braiding toward the center. Braid about 
five or six of these pieces and sew these together with raffia, thus forming 
an oblong bag, an extra piece may be braided and placed on each side. 
Handles are made by braiding two pieces, either twenty-seven, fifteen or 
nineteen strands and passing them partly through the pieces sewed to- 
gether, weaving them in and out, and then sewing with the raffia, leaving 
loops at the top. These bags are very serviceable, and the children are 
delighted to have them to carry books to and from their homes. Colored 
raffia may be used for the whole bag or the pieces may be woven in pat- 
terns, plaids, etc. 

11 



GRADE V— B Class— Sewing— Girls 

MODEL I — Ging-ham apron. 

MATERIAIvS — Checked gingham 7x6 in,, white thread No. 70, needle. 
No. 9. 

Teachers prepare pieces of checked gingham, 7 in. long and 6 in. wide. 
Give each pupil one piece of the gingham. Teach children principles of 
warp and woof. Explain that all clothing of man is woven on principle of 
warp and woof. Warp threads are the lengthwise threads, and are 
stronger than the woof or crosswise theads. Test warp and woof threads 
by breaking each one. Pupils will see that warp threads are very much 
harder to break than the woof threads. Plain cloth is woven of threads 
where the warp and woof are the same color. Gingham is often made of 
plain threads, and as often of two or more threads of different colors, as 
in this material — checked gingham. Show the pupils that the warp and 
woof in this material are of both colors. These threads are twisted and 
colored before weaving. In every lesson in sewing have children under- 
stand thoroughly the nature and principle of making the materials that 
they use. Talk about thread, how made ; needles how made. If possible, 
have children look up the subject for themselves previous to the lesson. 
Use these topics as subjects for the language work, nature study, drawing, 
reading, etc. In every possible way correlate the manual training with 
the other subjects contained in the curriculum. Now proceed with the 
making of the apron. Explain to the class that aprons look well made 
with narrow hems on the sides and a wider hem on the bottom. So we 
may turn down one check on the sides of our apron, or on the warp thread, 
and then two checks on the sides for the second turn; this will make 
about a quarter of an inch hem, depending of course upon the width of 
the hem. Now teach the use of the basting stitch to keep the hem in 
place until we have put in the hemming stitch. Teach new stitch — 
hemming stitch by illustrating on the board. For the first stitch, turn 
the needle to the right and go into the hem, not the apron ; this will bring 
the knot under the hem. Now point the needle to the left and take up 
about two threads of the apron and two threads of the hem. Do not in 
any case allow the pupils to count the threads. They will soon be able to 
measure with their e3^es. Hem neatly the two sides of the apron. It will 
pay to go slowly at first and have the children hem about an inch of the 
hem and then stop, while the teacher carefully inspects the work of each 
pupil. So if the children understand that you expect good work 3^ou will 
be able to secure it. This method will also prevent the children from be- 
coming discouraged by taking out much of the hem. Now turn and baste 
a one inch hem across the bottom of the apron, matching the checks, and 
having a whole check under the hem. Hem neatly and overhand the sides 
of the hem. Teach the new stitch — overhanding, by showing the children 
on the board the position of the needle, having it point almost directly 
toward you, and taking up about two threads of each side of the hem. Now 
we are ready to gather our apron. Begin at the right side of the apron, 
close up to the X inch hem. Make a small knot in the thread and sew over 
the knot. Now gather by using a fine running stitch, about Ys in. long, 
and gather about }i in. from the top. Now gather across the top to the 
other small hem on the other side and then draw this up tightly and 
placing the needle in the side hem and parallel to it, wind the thread 

12 



around the needle, forming- threads like the letter '*S ". Now take a pin 
and stroke the gathers careful'y. Now give each pupil a band 5)4 in. long- 
and IX ill- wide. I^et the gathering thread out and and fasten by sewing 
over the last thread several times. Pin the center of the band to the 
center of the apron. Pin the ends of the apron to the band, and baste the 
band on, even with the gathering* threads and sew each gather to the band 
with a strong back stitch, made by taking a stitch like the running stitch 
over each gather and then sewing it again forming the back stitch. Ex- 
plain to the class that a back stitch is used where great strength is required. 
Teach each stitch as it is needed, explaining fully its use, and illustrate in 
every possible way with the blackboard drawing. Teach all new work by 
class demonstration, thus gaining children's observation, attention, and 
then they will be able to do. Of course all the class will not get this, but 
about two-thirds of them will, and then the teacher may show the other 
one-third b3^ a second demonstration and afterwards individual work if 
necessary. Now turn down one check all around the band and baste and 
hem the part next to the band to the apron. Overhand the ends and parts 
not on the band neatly, being careful to match the checks. Press the 
apron carefully. The application of this lesson is the making of a small 
sewing apron to be worn in the class while sewing. 

Have pupils bring 1 yd. of some white material from home. Have 
pupils tear off the selvages carefully. Explain that the selvage will draw 
after the apron is washed. Have the pupils measure to the knees, allowing 
3 or 4 in. for a hem at the bottom. Before tearing this across tear off 3 in. 
from the side for the band, as bands are always made lengthwise of the 
cloth. Then fold and baste a X in. or )4 in. hem on each side of the apron 
and hem neatl3^ The bottom hem may be hemmed in the same manner, or 
it may be hemstitched. In this case have the pupils draw four or five threads 
and baste and hemstitch across. Put the band on in the same manner as 
in the small apron. During December have pupils use manual training 
period for Christmas work, bringing their own materials and making any- 
thing they wish. This class may make a raffia basket if any time is left. 
Directions for this basket are given in the advanced fourth grade work. 

GRADE V-A Class— Sewing 

MODEL I— Patching, two kinds. 

The first patch is called the hemmed patch. 

MATERIALS— Checked gingham 5x4 inches. No. 70 thread, No. 9 
needle. 

First cut a pattern: — Have pupils cut a piece of paper 5x4 inches, hav- 
ing this perfectly even. Fold lengthwise and then crosswise, where 
creases cross place a point with the pencil. Measure up J4 inch from this 
point, down )4 inch and the same distance to the right and left. From the 
upper point measure to the right and then to the left j^ inch, making 
points. Do the same from the lower points, connect these points with lines 
forming an inch square. Refold the paper so that the lines will be on the 
outside, cut the square out on these lines, see that the edges are perfectly 
straight and form an inch square. Now measure X inch diagonally from 
each corner and cut the slit, turn back the X inch formed in this way from 
each corner. Crease all around the square carefully, this forms the pattern. 
Take the 4x5 inch piece of gingham and do the same, by folding both 

13 



leng-thwise and then crosswise, but do not cut into a square or check of the 
gingham, even if it makes the hole larger or smaller, cut the whole check. 
Now give each pupil another piece of gingham 3^ inches square. Place 
this piece under the hole, placing the warp threads parallel with the 
threads in the 5x4 in. piece and match the checks carefully and pin and then 
baste, being careful there is a full check all around the edges. Now hem 
this neatly on the right side, being very careful that the corners are neatly 
hemmed. Turn one check under on the wrong side and hem carefully, 
having the stitches show as little as possible on the right side. Place a 
damp cloth on the right side of the patch and press with a hot iron. 

Second Patch— Overhanding. 

Prepare a second piece like the first 5x4 inches. Cut out the inch 
square the same as in the first patch. Place the 3^ inch square on the un- 
der side, match the checks and placing the edges together, overhand on the 
wrong side. Do not baste the patch — the 3)4 in. square to the 5x4 in. piece, 
but overhand the edges all around the square without basting. Trim the 
3^ in. square piece, so that only about X in. is on the wrong side. Now 
open these edges and press the patch, the same as in the first patch. Tell 
the pupils the first patch is used for heavy materials, and the second for 
light weight materials. 

MODEL III— Stocking darning. 

Have pupils bring their own stocking from home, or one of some mem- 
ber of the family. Talk about darning in general. Show the children by 
a drawing on the board that where the holes are we must put in new 
threads. If the darning to be done is a large hole, baste a piece of heavy 
paper under the darn — the paper about 1 in. larger than the darn. If the 
place to be darned is badly worn cut out the threads and we will put in new 
ones after basting the paper, on the wrong side of the stocking. Thread a 
darning needle with about two threads of the darning cotton or one if silk 
is used. Begin at the right about X in. from the edge of the hole and 
pointing the needle from you, take up about two threads of the stocking. 
Now point the needle downward and take up three threads, increasing 
about one thread each time until you have reached the center of the hole, 
then decrease, and come out on the left side of the hole j{ in. the same as 
we began. We have now put in the warp threads. To put in the woof 
threads, begin at the right in the center and using the fine weaving 
stitch, weave in and out across the threads we put in for warp threads. 
This will put in half the woof threads. Now weave the other half in the 
same way, forming a diamond shape darn. Press carefully with a hot iron, 
on right side first putting a damp cloth over the darn. 

MODEL IV— Laundry bag. 

MATERIALS — Linen, madras, denim or cotton. Thread correspond- 
ing to material. No. 8 needle. 

Pupils furnish their own materials for this bag. It may be of any 
material they desire and any size. Cut two pieces of material the same 
size. Turn down X in. on three sides. Put these two pieces together, 
with the turned down parts inside. Have the edges exactly together ; pin 
all corners together and on the sides, then baste with small stitches on 
three sides. Begin at the top and overhand down one side about three 

14 



inches. If it is a long- bag- then leave about one inch not overhanded. 
then go on around the bag- until you come to the same place on the oppo- 
site side, leave one inch here, then finish the other three inches. This 
bring-s you to the tO[) of the bag-. Now turn the three inches down for a 
hem at the top, basting: the hem even with the lower edge of the one inch 
openino^. At the top of the opening- make a casing by putting the running- 
stitch all around even with the top of the one inch opening. Put a tape or 
ribbon about J4 in. wide, in one end of the opening, bringing- it all around 
the bag- and coming- out at the same side you went in. Join the edges in a 
fell seam by placing one edg-e about % in. below the other and hemming- 
the top down. Do the same with another piece of tape or ribbon at the 
other opening. Overcast the seams inside the bag, and the bag- is finished. 
The basket for this grade ma}^ be made the same as in the Grade IV, A 
Class. During December the girls may bring Christmas work. Have 
them make anything they wish to make thus expressing their own indi- 
viduality. 

GRADE V— B Class 

MODE^Iy I— Envelope. 

MATERIALrS — Manilla paper 18x24, library paste, ruler, scissors, 
pencil. 

Fold one inch crease on the 18 in. side. Now divide the paper in 
half across the 18 in. side. Open this and crease, using this for the center, 
or fold without this crease. ITold three inches across each end, cut out 
the under side of the paper, measure in one inch on each side and cut 
toward the center. This will form the bottom of the envelope. Finish 
the top for the lap by trimming toward the center. Now fold and paste 
the lap down the center, then paste the lap for the bottom. This en- 
velope is to be used for holding all the drawings niade during the semester. 



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MODE^Iv II— Sand paper block. 
MATERIAI^S— Thin wood, 4)4x1)4 in. 

First raaking a working drawing of a block A^xlVs in. Place draw- 
ing of this on block, and cut with the sloyd knife. See drawings. 

IS 



WOODWORK— Whittling-. 

MODELS — Envelope, sand paper block, ruler 6 in., calendar, 
thread winder, basket. 

These models are all made from working drawings. See drawings. 



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GRADE V-A Class 

WOODWORK- Whittling-. 

MODELS— Envelope, made of 18x24 manilla paper according- to direc- 
tions given in Grade V, B Class. Ribbon vv^inder, butter ladle, picture 
frame, pencil sharpener, basket — raffia. 

Working- drawing-s made of these models according- to drawings accom- 
panying these lessons. • 

For instructions see General Directions. 

MATERIALS — Drawing paper, pencil, ruler, wood, trysquare, com- 
passes, sand paper. 




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GRADE VI— B Class— Sewing 

MODEL I— Dressdarning". 

MATERIAIvS — A piece of pupil's own dress or of some member of 
the famil}^ 

Have pupils bring- one piece about 5x4 in. and another 8 or 10 in. long- 
and 3 or 4 in. wide. Take the 5x4 in. piece, and in the upper left hand corner 
Yz in. from the top and Yi in. from the side, cut an inch slit on a warp thread. 
Under this slit, place a piece of the same material abou 1 1^ in. square, with, 
the warp threads running- parallel to the warp thread in the larg-e piece. 
Baste this on carefully, and then thread the needle with a warp thread 
from the 8 in. piece ; wax the end so it will thread easily. Beg-in at the 
rig-ht about Y ^^' from the edge of the slit and holding the edges of the slit 
together, darn with a fine running stitch, over one thread and under the 
next, and so on, until you get to Y i^i- o^ the other side of the slit. Con- 
tinue until the slit is all darned. Hem the patch lightly on the wrong 
side, with the ravelings, taking the stitches far apart, so thej'' will not 
show on the right side. At the right side of the piece cut a three-cornered 
slit — 1 in. on the warp and 1 in. on the woof. Darn the same as in the first 
darn, and when darning around the angle, make the stitches in form of a 
fan and gradually bring the stitches straight across the darn. In the lower 
corner at the left cut a 1 in. slit on the woof or cross thread, and darn as in 
the above darns. In the lower corner at the right cut a 1 in. bias slit, and 
darn in the same way. The application of this lesson is very helpful and 
practical. Have the girls bring some garment from home that needs 
darning, and apply the same method in darning. Press the darn with a 
hot iron, dampening it first with cold water. 

MODEIv II— Button holes. 

MATERIAIvS— White cotton cloth, 6x4 in., No. 50 white thread, No. 9 
needle. 

Turn Y in- down on all sides, crease and fold lengthwise, baste the 
edges together with small even basting stitches. If you have button 
hole scissors, set them so as to cut a button hole Y ii^- larger than the 
button hole you wish to use. Cut on a woof thread. Make a small knot 
on the end of the thread. Begin at the right side, take a stitch about 1-16 
in. from edge ; take a second stitch close to the first stitch and then 
before bringing the needle through pass the thread from right to left, 
this forms the edge or purl of the button hole. Continue until you get to 
the end of one side and then spread the stitches out in the fan shape, 
gradually bringing the stitches around straight on the other side. Keep 
the stitches close together and very even. Fasten by taking several small 
back stitches, over each other, fortning a bar at this end. This button 
hole is used on light-weight materials, or where there is very little strain. 
For heavy materials make a barred button, by barring the edges with long 
threads passing the threads through to the wrong side at the ends. Then 
overcast the edges including the barred threads and then proceed as 
before. ' 

MODEL III— White underskirt. 

Have the girls bring the skirt to school, ready for sewing. This may 
be cut and planned at home. They may make a short or a long skirt. 

22 



Pin the front g^ore to the side gore at the ends and in the middle, and 
baste with a % in. seam. Sew with three running and a back sticth. Do 
the same with the other side gore. Now baste the back gore to the side 
gores, and sew in the same manner. Baste and hem a narrow hem on 
the bottom, if the skirt is to be trimmed. If no trimming is to be used, 
make a wider hem. Lace or embroidery may be used for trimming. Cut 
the band on the warp thread. Have the girls measure themselves around 
the waist and allow Yz in. to be turned in, % in. on each side. Gather the 
top of the skirt, beginning at the side gore, and toward the back have the 
gathers full, and very full just in the back. Gather the other side just the 
same. Stroke and place the gathers, having the front with almost no 
fullness across, a little on each side and very full at the back. Tear nine 
inches down the center of the back gore. Fold and baste a % in. hem on 
one side and a ]4. in. hem on the other side. Place the ^ in. hem on the 
% in. hem and fasten over with a few small back stitches, to prevent the 
opening or placket from tearing down. Hem the band neatly to the 
wrong side. 

GRADE VI— A Class— Sewing 

MODEL I— Felling. 

MATERIALS— White cotton cloth, 4x3 in., needle No. 8, white thread 
No. 70. 

Have the cloth 4 in. on the warp threads and 3 in. on the woof threads. 
Tear this piece lengthwise or on the warp thread. You will have two 
pieces 2 in. wide. Place these together, putting one Ys, in. below the other 
edge on the warp threads. Baste Y?> in. below the lower edge. Now turn 
to the other side and sew together in a seam about one thread below the 
basting. Use a small running stitch occasionally taking a back stitch 
so the seam will not draw. When this is neatly done, remove the basting 
and turn the upper edge down and then turn under, forming a hem. 
Baste and hem neatly. Have the pupils understand the importance of 
basting in all sewing. Take short basting stitches for hand work and 
longer stitches for machine sewing. When children are learning to baste, 
only one stitch at a time should be taken, but later several stitches can 
be taken before drawing the needle through. The girls have now had 
quite a little practice in sewing, and as cooking or domestic science is 
the work of the 7th and 8th grades, we will now make a cooking uni- 
form. This uniform consists of an apron, a cap, and a pair of sleevelets. 
Pupils provide their own materials for this work. The larger girls will 
require about SYz yards of India lawn. The smaller girls about Ayi yards. 
This material can be purchased for about 10 or 12 cts. a yard. Anj' 
material, preferably white, may be used. Give the general directions to 
the class as a whole, and measure one apron before the class and then let 
the girls measure and plan their own. Take the material and measure 
first for the apron. As we wish to protect our dresses, we will make 
this apron of two widths of the cloth. Measure two widths the length 
of the girl's dress. Take off the selvage of the two pieces. Now tear 
one piece in two pieces, length-wise, using one piece for one side and the 
other for the other side. Baste these three seams, with a % in. seam, 
carefully. Sew in the same way you did the seam of the felling — that is 
with two running and one overback stitch, being careful not to draw the 

23 



seam. Now overcast the seams neatly. To overcast, take the depth of 
the stitch about Ys in. deep and j^ of that distance apart. This will give 
the rig-ht slant to the stitch. Now hem the sides of the apron with a half 
inch hem. Have the girls decide for themselves the width of hem they 
wish on the bottom of the apron. About two or three inches is a neat hem. 
Measure a band about 3 in. wide. Put on the apron in the same way we 
did the apron we made while in the B, Fifth Grade. Now cut a piece 
about 9 in. long and 8 in. wide. Hem one end with a 1 in. hem. Gather 
the other end carefully placing the gathers. After stroking the gather let 
it out about 6 in. across, and fasten. This will form the bib. Now meas- 
ure from the waist in front over the shoulder in the back to the waist line. 
Add 1 in. to the measurement and use this for the length and cut it about 
4 in. wide. This will form the straps for the shoulders. Cut two pieces. 
Turn in X ^^- o^ the long sides of these two pieces and putting edges 
together, baste ; now insert the sides of the bib, in these pieces, baste 
and hem neatly at the edges. Turn the short ends in, baste and over- 
hand the rest of these two pieces. Place the bib on the band, by either 
opening the top of the band and turning in about X in. and then inserting 
the bib, or rolling the raw edge of the bib over the finger and then sewing 
them.'' over and over. E^xtra shoulder pieces may be inserted in the 
shoulder straps just over the shoulder, if the girls would like to have 
them. In this case cut them about 9 in. long and 2^/2 in. wide when fin- 
ished. These pieces and the bottom hem of the apron may be hem- 
stitched, if the girls wish. Now put a button on one side of the band 
and a button hole on the other side. Put a button hole in the ends of 
each strap about ^ i"- from the edge. Put a button on each side of the 
center button. Then the shoulder pieces will be fastened down in the back 
neatly. Cut a 22 in. circle out of paper. Have the girls do this and try it 
on and see if they like that size for a cap. Allow 1}4 in. for a hem all 
around the circle. If the size is satisfactory to them have them cut the 
cloth in the same way. Hem the 1)4 in. hem neatly all around the cap. 
Place a running stitch X in. from the hem, on the hem. This will form 
the casing for the rubber. Put the rubber in to fit the head. This cap is 
to wear while cooking. The sleevelets are made by having the girls 
measure from the wrist to the elbaw, allowing 1 in. at each end for hem, 
or wider if they wish. Take one fold of the cloth, and fold it lengthwise, 
after measuring carefully they may taper them off to the wrist or use the 
whole fullness as they prefer. . Put the rubber in the same way as they 
did in the cap. 

GRADE VI— B Class 

WOODWORK— Whittling. 

MODELS — Envelope — Manilla paper, 18x24 in., made as in Grade V, 
B Class. Penholder, paper knife, picture frame No. 2, mat-hexagon, 
basket. 

MATERIALS — Drawing paper, pencil, wood, try square, sloyd knife, 
ruler, compasses. 

- Models except basket, made from working drawings, accompanying 
these lessons. 

During December pupils make the basket or bring materials of their 
own to make Christmas gifts. 

24 



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GRADE VI— A Class 

WOODWORK— Whittling-. 

MODELS — l^nvelope — Manilla paper, 18x24 in., made according to di- 
rections given for Grade V, B Class. Pupils keep drawings and models 
in the envelope. Foot-ruler, gavel, letter-opener, original model, basket. 

Models all made from working drawings that accompany these 
lessons. 

Drawings must be accuratelj^ and neatl)' done before pupils have the 
wood to work out the drawing. 

During December, have pupils bring materials to make Christmas 
gifts, or make the basket. 

Original model from a drawing made by pupil with no assistance 
from the teacher. 



For this model pupil furnishes his own wood. 

77 




28 




-B 



A- 



-B 



29 



GRADE VII— B Class— Needle Work and Sewing 

GIRIvS 

MODEL I — Corset Cover — cut from pattern. 

Girls bring pattern to school and learn to cut from a pattern. Model 
trimmed in any way pupil desires. 

MODEIv II — Night-dress, cut from patterns, trimmed as desired. 

MATERIAL — Any suitable material. Cotton cloth, cambric, long 
cloth, etc., suggested as appropriate material. 

MODEL III — Any needle work pupils wish to do during December. 
Christmas gifts. 

This work is suggested and outlined for schools where Domestic 
Science, the usual work for the seventh and eight grades, is not possible. 
This work can be done in regular school room under class teacher. 

GRADE VII— A Class— Sewing and Needle Work 

MODEL I— Flannel skirt. 

MATERIALS— White or any colored flannel. 

Pupils cut from pattern. Sew seams and catch stitch. Put wide hem 
on the bottom of the skirt and feather stitch. Put ribbon on for a belt 
and feather stitch to skirt. 

MODEL II — Make raffia and rattan baskets. Use Indian designs. 

MODEL III — Any needle work pupils wish to do during December. 
Christmas gifts. 

GRADE VII— B Class-Woodwork 

MODEL I — Planing exercise. 

MATERIAL— White pine, ^x2Kxl6 in. 

Plane and use to make Exercise II. 

MODEL II— Coat hanger. 

Pupils make a drawing with the above size as guide. First make a 
free hand sketch, then a working drawing. Work out model in wood. 
Finish neatly, polish or varnish. 

MODEL III— Sleeve Board. 

MATERIAL— White pine, ^x5>^xl9 in. 

Follow same directions as above. 

MODEL IV— Floor broom holder. 

MATERIAL— Gum wood, >^x3>^x8^ in. 

MODEL V— Whisk broom holder. 

MATERIAL— Gum wood, ysx3}ix8}^ in., and ^x234:x 6 in. 

MODEL VI— Jardinere stand. 

MATERIAL— Yellow poplar, Xx3x9 in. 

MODEL VII — Original drawing and model. An3^thing pupil wishes 
to make, furnishing own materials. Suggestions : Chair, small table, etc. 

Work of seventh and eighth grades under special teachers in shops, 
with (tools. 

30 



GRADE VII— A Class— Woodwork 

MODEiL I— Photograph frame. 
MATERIAL — Gum wood, any size. 
MODEL II— Bread cutting- board. 
MATERIAL — White pine and g-um wood. 
MODEL III— Pen tray. 
MATERIAL— Gum wood 7/8x2)^x12 in. 
MODEL IV— Hammer handle. 
MATERIAL— Hickory %x2kiS in. 
MODEL V— Hatchet handle. 
MATERIAL— Hickory ^x2xlS in. 

MODEL VI — Orig-inal model and drawing-. Sug-g-estion : Simple Book- 
case, small cabinet. 

All models made from working- drawing. Pupils make a free hand 
sketch first. 

Work of seventh and eighth grades under special teachers in shops, 
with tools. 

GRADE VIII— B Class— Sewing and Needle Work 

MODEL I— Shirt waist. 

Cut waist from shirt waist pattern. 

MATERIALS — Any wash material, gingham, lawn, linen, dimity. 
Trim in any way pupils desire. 

MODEL II— Waste basket. 

MATERIALS — Raffia, rattan or splints. Indian designs used. Stitch 
for basket same as A fourth grade. 

During December pupils may bring any needle work. Christmas gifts. 

GRADE VIII— A Class— Sewing and Needle Work 

MODEL I— Shirt waist dress. 
Waist and skirt cut from patterns. 

MATERIALS — Any light weight dress goods pupil may desire. Cot- 
ton or woolen. 

Trimmed or decorated in any simple way pupil may desire. 

MODEL II — Fancy work of any kind. Silk work bag, table covers, 
pillow covers, doilies, etc. 

MODEL III — Needle work of any kind during December. Christmas 
gifts. 

GRADE VIII— B Class— Woodwork 

MODEL 1— Key Board. 

MATERIALS— Gum wood, J^x2)^xl6 in., brass cup hooks and screw 
eyes. 

MODEL II— Knife and fork box. 

31 



MATERIAIvS— Gum, poplar or butternut. 

M0DE:L III— Towel roller. 

MATERIAIyS — Gum, poplar, butternut and pine. 

Any design instructor approves of or an original design. 

MODElv IV — Glove box or handkerchief box with cover without 
hinges. 

MATERIAL— Poplar. 

MODEL V— Mail box. Door with hinges. 

MATERIAL— Poplar. 

MODEL VI — Any original drawing and model. Revolving book-case 
suggested. 

All models preceded by free hand sketch and then working drawing. 

GRADE VIII— A Class— Woodwork 

MODEL I— Bird house. 

MATERIAL— Pine or any suitable wood. 

MODEL II — Book rack. Original design. 

MATERIAL— Poplar. 

MODEL III— Clock shelf. 

MATERIAL— Any wood suitable. 

MODEL IV — Picture frame with mitred corners. Any size pupil 
desires. 

MATERIAL— Wood suitable. 

MODEL V— Shaving cabinet. 

MATERIAL— Pine, poplar or butternut. 

MODEL VI— Medicine cabinet. 

MATERIAL— Pine, poplar or butternut. 

MODEL VII— Fern stand. 

MATERIAL— Oak or poplar. 

MODEL VIII— Original model. 

All models made from working drawing preceded by free hand sketch. 
Instructor to suggest size and proportion in work in this grade. 

Raffia Basket 

During December, the pupils in all the eight grades may be allowed to 
do Christmas work. Have them do anything they wish. They are to pro- 
vide their own materials, thus expressing their own individuality. For 
those who do not do this for any reason the teacher must provide some 
extra work — a raffia basket is suggested. 

Take about 10 or 12 strands of the natural raffia. Place the hard ends 
together and cut off about 1 in. at the ends. Thread the needle with a 
smooth strand of raffia. Place the smaller end of the strand on the coil, 

32 




33 



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and under your fingers of your left hand with the needle in the right 
hand wind about 1 in. of the end. Wind from you, untwisting the strand 
as you wind, making it as smooth as possible as you wind. Draw the 
wrapper very tightly over the coil. When you have wound 1 in. turn the 
end back toward you and holding the end over with the thumb of your 
left hand, wind over the two, to hold it together ; now take a stitch by 
placing the needle through from the underside between the coil and even 
with the stitch where you stopped. Draw this up very tight and proceed 
to wind again, always winding from you. Now only wind about four 
times, and again bring the needle through from the under side between 
the coils as before. Continue and keep smoothing out the wrapper and 
shaping the coil with your fingers, to make it even, solid and smooth. 
Make the bottom of the basket about four or five inches across. When 
you are readj- to turn up the sides wind as before, but instead of putting 
the coil next to the previous row, place it on top, and take the stitch as 
before. You may shape the basket in any form you wish with your fingers. 
If you wish to turn the sides up gradually place the coil you turn up on 
the outer edge of the one you just made. If you wish to have it turn in, 
fasten the coil you are winding on the inside of the previous coil. Colored 
raffia designs may be introduced as desired. Thread the needle with the 
colored raffia, and put in as much of the design as you wish, and then 
thread with the natural and again with the color and so on. This basket 
is called the lazy squaw basket. A solid raffia basket may be made in the 
same way, only putting the stitch through the coil, about half way instead 
of between the coils. Add to the coil by placing any number of strands 
on the coil you have and winding over them carefully. This may be 
done gradually but often. For very young children I should use the large 
coil, except just at the beginning, and the lazy squaw stitch, as they get 
tired very easily doing the fine work. Older pupils will be delighted to 
make the solid raffia basket, with very pretty design. 

Paper Cutting: for Expression 

This paper cutting can be done in the first three grades with very 
satisfactory results. It is most helpful and practical when done in con- 
nection with the story-telling. Take the stories that are used for lan- 
guage work. Have the children relate the story while the class listens, 
and then talk about it ; this will kindle the children's imagination and 
better results will follow, than if we go right to work to cut at the begin- 
ning of the Manual Training period. In the first grade take a very 
simple story, one that has two figures in. The children may use the 
drawing paper. Encourage the cutting of large figures and objects. 
Occasionally have a lesson where several children are engaged in cutting 
parts of the story. Then have these large parts of the story mounted on a 
large piece of card board. This may be done on gray boards, with black 
or red papers, with good results. Hang this up in the room, it will be 
suggestive for future lessons. Have the children compare their work with 
that of the others and decide which they like the better. Give the children 
in the first three grades a lesson about once each month in paper cutting, 
and one in clay modeling. These lessons would be very valu-able oftener^ 
if time is allowed on the school program. Secure as much time as 
possible for hand work, as it is such a valuable aid in teaching the other 
subjects. Drawing paper may be used. 

34 



Directions for Whittling: 

1. Have pupils stand erect. 

2. Hold piece to be whittled in the left hand. 

3. Grasp knife in the right hand, binding thumb and fingers over the 
handle as in clenched fist. 

4. Support left arm against the body and leave the right arm free. 

5. For straight whittling with the grain, let the blade of the knife 
slant backward about 45° and beginning near the handle, draw the blade 
through the wood as it advances, thus using the entire cutting edge. 
These strokes should be long and even. If much wood is to be removed, 
do not split it off in thick pieces but make the shavings as thin and uni- 
form as possible. 

6. For cross whittling bring the piece nearer the body and elevate it 
slightly, resting the arm firmly against the body. Grasp the knife so that 
the thumb will rest against the side of the handle, make a slight incesion 
straight with the line, than a deeper one outside the line, slanting toward 
it. Make another straight cut just deep enough to remove the first 
chip. Repeat this process, always making the slanting cut deeper than 
the straight one until the middle of the piece is reached, then turn it and 
begin at the other end. When the surplus wood is removed grasp the 
piece between the thumb and knife and trim carefully to the line. When- 
ever possible cut with the grain. 

Directions for Sandpapering 

1. Sandpaper only such parts as are specified in the special directions. 

2. No model should be sandpapered until it is examined and accepted 
by the teacher. 

3. Always move the sandpaper in the direction of the grain, except 
in certain cases which are specified. 

4. Use a block on flat surfaces and be careful to preserve all sharp 
corners and edges. 

Sandpaper in numbers from "0" to ''rough 2." 

General Directions for Conducting a Lesson in Woodwork Drawing 

Every model must be preceded b3^ a drawing. Provide each pupil 
with a desk board, a sheet of paper, 8x11 inches is suggested. Hold model 
before the class so that each pupil can see it distinctly. Let them name 
it, giving the name of the type form it represents. In the sandpaper 
block it will be the oblong. Compare the length and width, and draw in 
the center of the paper, freehand, an oblong representing as nearly as 
possible the true proportions, not necessarily^ the true size of the object. 
Now the teacher may make a large sketch on the board and show the 
pupils how to indicate the true dimensions by means of lines and figures. 
Kxplain the nature of working drawings and the kind of lines used in 
their construction. Now pass the drawing materials : — ^T squares, tri- 
angles, rulers, thumb tacks and dra^ying paper. With the instruction 
given and with the freehand sketch as a guide each boy should make a 
complete and accurate working drawing of the sandpaper block. Often 
the freehand sketch and working drawing may be completed in one les- 
son. If this can not be done, finish in the next lesson. Then take up the 
drawing of the next model. Do not attempt a drawing and a whittling 
lesson during the same period. 

35 



GRADE VII 

Boys' Shop Work. 
Girls' Domestic Science. 

GRADE Vni 

Boys' Shop Work. 
Girls' Domestic Science. 

These grades have special rooms fitted up for the purpose. A shop for 
the boys, a laboratory for the girls. These shops and laboratories are called 
centers. The pupils in the surrounding- districts go to these centers once 
a week for one and one-half hours instruction. The work is taught b3^ 
special teachers under direction of the Supervisor of Manual Training. 
The needle work and sewing outlined for these classes is designed to take the 
place of Domestic Science (cooking) when Domestic Science laboratories 
or kitchens are not possible. The materials for all work, except large models 
and garments, which are to be the pupil's own property are furnished by 
the Board of Education. 

Suggestions for Clay Modeling — Materials 

Clay that is as free from grit as possible, and is not too brittle. 
In order to produce the best results children must be able to com- 
pare their efforts as they progress from month to month. Clay to be en- 
tirely satisfactory must not be so brittle but that with care it will keep 
in shape several months. 

In order to keep the clay in condition for use, it is necessary to have a 
stone jar or galvanized tin pail with a close fitting cover. At the end of 
every lesson a few of the best pieces of clay work should be kept. From 
being handled as well as from exposure to the air, the clay will be less 
moist at the end than at the beginning of the lesson, therefore add a little 
water to the clay as soon as it is returned to the jar. 

At first no tools for modeling are necessary other than the fingers 
and thumbs of the two hands, but gradually other aids can be introduced 
first a tooth-pick, then one or two modeling tools or knives can be used to 
advantage. 

If clay is soft, let them beat it once or twice on the board to stiffen it. 
Take a small piece of clay from large piece and flatten out into a small 
thick circle. Take another piece of clay and roll like a stick of candy. 
Place the roll on the flat circle and work the two together beginning on 
the inside always working downwards. Do the same on the outside. Place 
as many rolls on your modeled clay as will make your object. Work 
very slowly, being careful about the curving of the lines. 

In the first grade in the early lessons the teacher should have much 
the same aim in view as in the drawing, i. e., free expression of childish 
impressions but always with a definite thought in mind, such as neatness 
and care in handling material, good position of work on plinth or slab 
and a pleasing relationship between the size of picture traced on clay and 
the size of plinth. 

36 



Method of Conducting: Lesson 

Give each child a lump of clay about as large as the child can cover 
with his two hands, after having- previously passed to each one a sheet of 
paper. Ordinary wrapping paper will answer, but for permanent use a 
piece of oil cloth about 9x12 in. will be a great protection to the desk and 
will in every way be better than paper. 

During the first lesson the making of the plinth should be very care- 
fully directed. Have pupils place the hands against the clay so that the 
back of the hands is up and the fingers partly closed so that they point 
towards the body. In this position let the hands rest against the sides of 
the mass of clay to keep it from spreading, while the thumbs are used to 
press the claj^ into shape. The pressure of the thumbs on the clay should 
be uniform and steady, and on no account ought children be allowed to 
pat or pound the clay. Make the plinth nearly uniform in thickness of 
about ^ in., and of pleasing proportions, also see that the corners are 
square. When the children have done this much by direction, let them 
trace with their fingers or a tooth-pick a story in the clay. This part of 
the lesson should be as free as possible, while the making of the plinth 
should have been entirely under the guidance of the teacher. Let the 
children sec some of the best results obtained at these lessons, by sending 
a few of the children to the front of the room with their work. 

Collect all clay carefully, and on no account have the pieces broken 
in the presence of the class, even while children know that their work 
cannot be kept for any length of time, it has a harmful effect upon them 
to see it so quickly destroyed. 

Do not allow children to handle clay used by other children. 

IDA HOOD CLARK. 



37 



A COLOR. TREATMENT 

In drawing appeals to the child's innate love of beauty, 
and by it he is brought into close touch with nature. 

DIXON'S SOLID CRAYONS 

Are the best to use for school work. They are made in 
many varieties of color and have recently been adopted 
as STANDARD in New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore 
and Boston. 

NATURE DRAWING 

Has never been so satisfactory as since the introduc- 
tion of color as a medium, and the use of this medium 
offers the possibilities to the pupils of making the draw- 
ing resemble the original without translation of tone. 

THE DIXON CRAYONS 

Are made in eighteen colors, and include, beside the 
primary colors, those browns, sepras and light greens 
so useful in all kinds of nature work. A sample box 
will be sent to any drawing teacher that mentions this 
advertisement. 

JOSEPH DIXON CRUCIBLE COMPANY 

JERSEY CITY. N. J. 



THE TODD ADJUSTABLE HAND LOOM 

Pat. yuly 23, iqoi, Dec. 2q, IQ03, 

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PERFECTION 

[see illustration] 
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The Todd Loom No. 1 has been 
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without the dip, and its low price 
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The Todd Metal Loom No. 2 has a 
decided improvement in the riveted 
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RUG YARNS MACREME CORD KNITTING YARNS 

WEAVING NEEDLES WARP GERMANTOWN WOOL 

Send for descriptive circulars of looms 
and weaving materials and booklet, 
'"How to Make Hammocks." 

TODD &, TODD. 

hiventors and Manufacturers 




730 E. 18th STREET 



MINNEAPOLIS, MINN. 



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HENRY TURNER BAILEY 
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WORCESTER, MASSACHUSETTS 

Publishers of Things to Serve Those who Teach Drawinf; 
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40 Dearborn Street 



CHICAGO 



TEXT BOOKS 
ART EDUCATION 



An entirely new Series of PUPILS' BOOKS having the title, TEXT- 
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Books 1 and 2, - - - - ;$ .25 

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Books 7 and 8, . . . ,55 
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Liberal discount given on Boxes and Loose Cakes. 



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378 Wabash Avenue, Chicago 
NEW YORK CHICAGO 



The Thomas 



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Trains its pupils for teaching the following 
branches in Public, Normal and Private Schools 

IVIanual Training 

Knife Work, Bench Work, Lathe Work, Etc. 

Domestic Science 

Domestic Art 

Industrial Work 

Music 

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Penmanship 



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Manual Training 



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40 DEARBORN STREET 
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Board of Approval 

E. BENJ. ANDREWS, 
Chancellor University of Nebraska 

FRANK W. GUNSAULUS, 
Pres't Armour Institue, Chicag'o 

R. T. MILLER, JR., 

Pres't Am. School of Correspondence 

A. C. BARTLETT, 

Pres. Hibbard, Spencer, Bartlett & Co., Chicago 

HON. RICHARD S. TUTHILL, 
Judgfe, Juvenile Court, Chicag'O 

J. E. PAINTER, 

Supervisor Man. Train'g Pub. Schools, Minneapolis 

D. H. PAINTER, 

Principal Adams School, Minneapolis 

C. M. JORDAN, 

Superintendent Public Schools, Minneapolis 

IDA HOOD CLARK, 

Supervisor Man. Train'gr Public Schools, Milwaukee 

CHAS. E. McLENEGAN, 

Prin. West Div. Hig'h School, Milwaukee 

A. C. NEWELL, 

Supervisor Man. Train's; Pub. Schools, Des Moines, la, 

MRS. EMMONS BLAINE, 

Founder of the Emmons Blaine Schools', Chicago 




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